INTRODUCTION & DAY 1

“There are two Cubas:  Ours and the one you picture to yourselves.”
Ricardo Alarcón, President of the Cuban National Assembly, 1993-2013, quoted in Mick Winter, “Cuba for the Misinformed”.

“Patria Es Humanidad”  (Country Is Humanity)
Jose Martí, Cuban national hero, slogan painted large at the José Martí International 
 Airport, Havana, and visible to any passenger arriving there.

"Folk Art Market!  Folk Art Market!  This way!"

 Viviana Rives, Cuban Tourism Guide

Jaimanitas, Cuba

Not many living Americans have been in Cuba legally, unless they had resided there or had travelled there before 1960, or unless they left in the onetime exodus of 1980.  What US citizen of a certain age does not remember 1962?  The earliest, still vivid diplomacy lesson for US baby boomers:  at school filing out of class, our terror compensated with giddy and nervous laughter shushed by stern schoolteachers, sitting on the hallway floors in long lines against the walls, arms over heads.  Or crouched under the flimsy wooden desks, heads between knees, hunkered and dreading the Russian missiles incoming from Cuba and aimed at OUR TOWN.  And the vague but sensible relief we experienced when that crisis went away, and JFK assured us that we were safe again.  Images of Cuba, what it must be like, what it must be about, and its place in the world, imprinted during our formative years, remain for many of us little changed.  The last 50 years of Cuban history are not even on most folks' radar.  

Now the door is open just a little, maybe a foot’s width.  Legal travel to Cuba from the US, by US citizens, must be documented and must satisfy strict requirements, which have been agreed upon by both governments.  Visits take the form of “people-to-people” cultural exchanges, and focus on limited themes:  art, music, dance, photography, cultural events, museums, and so on.  Travel is structured, and free time is minimal.  Cuban citizens may come to the US for cultural exhibits and family visits, and Cuban-Americans may now go to Cuba.  In the first half of 2013 almost 17,000 visas were issued by the US to Cuban citizens.  Reunion after so many years of separation has been a godsend for the families split between two countries.

Cuba & It's Neighbors

MJ and I went to Cuba, Dec. 4-12, 2013, on a “people-to-people” cultural trip sponsored by the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market, facilitated by Cuba Cultural Travel.  As it happens, Cuba was our very first international destination (border Mexico doesn’t count).  It should be evident, as this blog develops, that our journey was rare, exhilarating, and transformative.

Of note to anyone reading this:   The US embargo of Cuba, a very isolating and suppressive one, has been (independent of Cuba’s own economic and governmental flaws) also a very destructive one.  As always with Draconian embargoes, Cuba's population has suffered most.  The embargo has utterly failed:  its intended target, the Cuban government, remains in charge of Cuba.  Nor has the Cuban exile community, wealthy and powerful as it is, been able to depose the governing party, despite attempts at assassination, overthrow, and invasion (eg., the uncomfortably memorable Bay of Pigs failure).  

It was our impression, interacting with people there, that the Cuban revolution still enjoys popular support, especially in the more rural areas we were allowed to see.  It was heartening to be assured that the Cuban government has consistently placed responsibility for the embargo upon the US government, and not upon the American people overall, who remain “well-liked.”  Cubans are aware that most Americans now want the embargo to end, and that we would like to travel freely to Cuba.

The US embargo of Cuba is now in its 53rd year.  Each year, for the last twenty-two years, the United Nations General Assembly has resolved to bring an official end to the embargo, based on concerns of human rights and potential genocide.  This year a record 188 countries voted in favor of the resolution.  ONLY the US and ISRAEL voted against it.  Not even Palau, for years our only other backer, votes with us anymore.

On to the country and the people.

DAY ONE:

Documents in order, ready to go

Processing at Miami International for the flight to Havana (La Habana) requires 2 hours.  About 80% of the passengers were Cuban-Americans or Cubans.  They were laden with gifts for their families back in Cuba.  We saw large screen TVs, disposable diapers, toys, dolls, Catholic icons, paper towels, clothing, you name it.  We had concern that the plane would be overloaded and ground-bound, so much cargo was aboard.  For ABC Charters, though, all in the daily routine.

The atmosphere on the plane was expectant and quiet during taxiing.  Passengers applauded and cheered when the plane accelerated for takeoff.  Their excitement grew throughout the 45 minutes of flying time, infecting everyone.  On descent, some passengers were crying, faces glued to windows.  Outside, the Cuban landscape unfolded as very green rolling hills, cultivated fields alternating with stands of trees, groves of royal palms, and small clouds of smoke from burning cane.  The sun was brilliant.  East of us the Havana skyline gleamed in the sun, like any other coastal city from a distance.  Dave recorded the last few seconds of descent and landing.

Descent, West of Havana

Processing through Cuban customs takes perhaps 30 minutes.  Dave was retained briefly and vigorously interrogated about his several books.  Meriting special attention was a Spanish novel titled “The Informer."  With legal entry into Cuba stalled, thus came the first demand that we try speaking rudimentary Spanish.  Afortunadamente, one Spanish word we know is "ficción".  

MJ, unwittingly, took photos of the young military officers, the women outfitted in black lacy pantyhose and khaki miniskirted uniforms, provoking a quick, stern warning that photographing military personnel in Cuba is verboten.  Affecting innocence, she told them the photo was to capture "que son tan bonitos."  Our quick passage through the last customs barriers was ushered by their pleased laughter.

Our assigned guide, Viviana Rives, and our bus driver Michel, employees of the Cuban government and tour company, met us outside the terminal. 

Michel

Viviana 

We braved a noisy gauntlet of extended families who had gathered to greet returning relatives bearing great gifts.  Our bus circled out of Jose Martí, entering the hectic stream of traffic made of wary pedestrians, classic American cars from the 1950’s, occasional VW's and Japanese cars, and many desultory little Ladas from the Soviet era, and headed for Havana through Playa, Miramar and Vedado.  Neighborhoods through which we passed had been, before the 1959 revolution, among the most elegant in Cuba.  They are now in much disrepair but mostly occupied, only scattered homes being fully maintained or restored.  Poverty is apparent, but so are smiling faces and laughter.

                                                               West suburban Havana

                                                          Iglesia Jesús de Miramar


We lunched at Restaurant El Aljibe in Miramar.  Miramar was one of pre-revolutionary Havana”s affluent suburbs.  At El Aljibe we sampled Crystal and Bucanero, Cuba’s only domestic beers.  Live Cuban music accompanied the meal.  We were introduced, also, to the Cuban staple foods which were, in some variation or other, to be our fare for the next 8 days.  Chief among these are various fried roots and fish, orange chicken and roasted or pulled pork, plantains, ice cream (which resembles the old American product called mellorine), and Moros y Cristianos (Moors and Christians, black beans and white rice stirred together). 

El Aljibe, like many Havana establishments that cater to tourists including the Havana airport, staffs baños with attendants who help one wash and dry hands for tips.  I believe there must be a shortage of paper towels, given that I saw only one in 8 days, and it was serving as a napkin. 

Entrance, Restaurante El Aljibe

Bucanero, the Cuban dark beer

The bus route through Miramar and Vedado, two other formerly elite and prosperous suburbs, took us past several historical landmarks.  Americans have seen news reports, photos and videos of Castro’s famous marathon speeches from the Plaza de la Revolución.  In this same plaza Pope John Paul celebrated mass with uncountable worshipers.  The scale is far greater than outsiders realize, covering many acres,  All sides are bordered by government buildings.  Orators usually stand below the Memorial á Jose Martí, and the crowd fills the plaza.  Imagine standing out there, in the sun and humidity, for a six-hour speech.  Fainting is commonplace, per Viviana.

Monument to José Martí at the Plaza de la Revolución

Plaza de la Revolución
In the background:  Camilo Cienfuegos, "Vas bien, Fidel

Che Guevara, "Hasta la Victoria Siempre"

Coco-taxi at Plaza de la Revolución

We passed the bar where Fidel Castro famously proclaimed the revolution as a socialist one, thereby prompting the exodus of many wealthy Cubans; the national sports academy of Cuba; the Havana Libre Hotel (Havana Hilton until occupied by Castro’s soldiers, thereby becoming the HQ of the revolution); the Necropolis Cristóbal Colón (a giant cemetery attended by mystical legends and containing the graves of famous people); Centro Habana with its crowded lanes, and we disembarked at the Hotel Parque Central, our Havana HQ.  Parque Central is the boundary between Centro Habana and Habana Vieja.

Hotel Parque Central.  Our room 2nd floor, behind
railing 3 windows back, facing the park across the street to the right.

View from our room

Early evening was perfect for ambling around Parque Central and along El Prado, AKA Paseo de Martí.  We used our rare downtime.  Parque Central is a lively, busy place.  All ages and social sets stroll about, wait for one of the numerous buses, summon a bici-taxi or one of the old American cars serving as taxis in Havana (they’ll summon you, too), loll on benches in the sun or under the trees, engage in people watching, hustle foreigners in a variety of ways, or argue baseball in the unique spot called Esquina Caliente (The Hot Corner”, ie., third base?).  Below are a few evening street scenes in and around Parque Central, which show among other things the ubiquitous José Martí statue, the Capitolio, and the adjacent National Theater.

National Theater and Capitol

Paseo José Martí transitions to El Prado at Parque Central.  El Prado, leading north to the ocean, is a beautiful divided boulevard with a tree-lined median walkway crowded with the locals.  

In bygone days El Prado must have been breathtaking, but it is astonishing even today.  Now both sides of the boulevard feature a jumble of houses, historical buildings, subdivided apartments, and skeletal facades behind which there are no longer structures.  All of the well-known Cuban architectural styles, from Spanish Colonial to Baroque to Neo-Colonial to Art Deco to Soviet are on display, frequently next to one another or even in different parts of the same remodeled building.  Obvious here, to the eye, are the unique apartments called “barbacoas”, about which more on Day 5.  Below, a few late evening shots along El Prado with its hodgepodge of styles:

Late that evening we dined at Paladar San Cristóbal, in Centro Habana.  Paladares are private and mostly family-owned restaurants, occasionally with rooms-for-let.  Only in the last 2-3 years has the government allowed such small private businesses, thereby creating a soft opening of the economy to private enterprise.  Change was implemented under Raúl Castro, Fidel’s brother.  Paladares are everywhere, even in rural areas, sometimes in private houses and otherwise as streetside stands or tucked away in holes-in-the-wall.  Paladar San Cristóbal is the generational family home of the proprietor, who repurchased it and opened his restaurant.  Caribbean-style lamb stew is the especialidad de la casa, and amazing.  The restaurant hides in an old area of multistory buildings and narrow lanes.  There are many small tiendas, laundries, video stores, etc.  Up and down the streets the impression is one of sparse occupancy and dilapidation, but active and vibrant lives occur out of sight.  The inside of Paladar San Cristóbal is elegant and plush, and recalls an earlier and more dignified era.  Paladar San Cristóbal is one of the best restaurants that we have ever experienced.  The owner served aperitif champagne, a gracious act.  Following champagne were gratis Cuban rum (Havana Club 7 years), Cohiba cigars, and satiation.


                                                          PALADAR SAN CRISTOBAL

Main dining room             

Alcove

I thought of leaving out gratuitous asides, 
but this is a great shot by MJ

Touring the kitchen, after dinner (obviously)

Back at Hotel Parque Central, we ended the day with capstones of a Cohiba Siglo VI for Dave, portions of Cuban rum, and the outdoor roof garden, which offers a panorama of Havana, balmy air, a swimming pool, and a few mildly intrusive Americans and Canadians.

                                        

                                                                    Cigar Hostess

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